Tuesday, September 15, 2009

To Party like a Porteno


We had our first night out in the city this past weekend. There was a party arranged for expats in some popular club, which luckily happened to be nearby. Portenos eat dinner very late, compared to American standards, and do not go out to clubs until 2 or 3am and party on until the morning hours. So that is what we did. Seriously though what is it they do from the time they finish dinner until going out? I really doubt I will ever get used to this schedule. I was completely exhausted the next day. I will never be able to party like a porteno!

Restaurant Review
Don Julio:Guatemala 4691 and Gurruchaga, Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires - +54 11 4831 9564

We found this parilla, very close to our apartment, through various reviews online. Most everyone seemed to
name it one of their favorite parillas in Buenos Aires. I think we have been given too many ideas about how cheap Buenos
is because eating out is not as cheap we were thought, especially at a parilla style restaurant. Yes, the meat is much cheaper than in the US, maybe about $8-10, but then you have to order any sides, which are enormous, separately along with any sauce for the meat. This brings the cost up to about $15-20. The portions are huge so if you go with a group and split the meat, sides and sauces it is definitely worth it. We were disappointed by the choice of sides here, a variety of different fries or a vegetable plate. We got the veggies and which were basically just steamed with no flavor, not even salt had been added. M G was happy with his choice of meat, and my pumpkin and cheese filled ravioli was tasty(I am not a big meat eater). The atmosphere is nice, a mix of expats (since many expats live in the Palermo Soho barrio) and porteno families. It is surprising to see small children our so late, most of whom ended up falling asleep on their mother's lap.




Observations
  • -Restaurants never give free tap water which is a pain. It took us a while to understand that we will only be given bottled water, costing about $2 each.
  • -The food here really does not have much spice to it. I am already missing spicy food and my favorite Asian restaurants. The only Chinese restaurants I have heard about are in Chinatown (Belgrano) along with a couple of Thai and Japanese. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the entire city (and curry paste is really hard to find!)
  • I have seen much less homeless people than in Paris or DC... Don't know how that is possible.
  • I just witnessed an older woman attack a young woman, kicking and shoving her, in the street. I have no idea what it was about but am assuming the young woman stole something from the other. Of course, la policia was no where to be found.
Oh yes I have started taking Spanish classes and our classroom is in a beautiful old building with huge windows looking out onto a picturesque courtyard. I have just had my second day but am really enjoying it so far. There are 3 other Americans, 2 Icelanders, and one girl from Brazil. The teaching style is exactly what I was looking for, that is, speaking only Spanish in class and having no translations, also emphasizing conversation rather than grammar and writing. I randomly found the class on the internet through TEFL International, which costs $200 for one month of 15 hours of class per day. The best part is that I can walk there in about 25 minutes.

Below are various pictures from our stroll around Recoleta and Belgrano







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